For an elegant summertime escape, hop a flight to Bermuda, where a new resort is bring next-level luxury to this old-school, decidedly civilized island paradise

There’s a story floating around Bermuda that neatly sums up the ethos of the island. And, like all really good bits of resort-island lore, the story involves a mega celebrity. In this case, it’s Oprah.

Winfrey, the tale goes, was set to purchase a sprawling mansion in Bermuda’s most upscale neighborhood, Tucker’s Town, where homeowners include billionaire Ross Perot and Italian premier Sylvio Berlusconi, (Michael Douglas and wife Catherine Zeta-Jones live elsewhere on the island). But when it came out that Oprah allegedly wished to line the road with an extensive 24-hour security detail, the government supposedly told her thanks, but no thanks. In a place where knee-length creased shorts and hiked-up dress socks still constitute legitimate business attire, that’s just not how Bermudans roll.

When we touched down on a recent trip, after being waved through by the world’s friendliest customs inspector, we discovered the essence of Bermuda: elegance without pretense. Bermudans simply call it civilized.

Bermuda looks and feels like the Caribbean with its turquoise waters, serene beaches and extensive coral reefs—the most northerly reef system in the world, in fact—and because of Gulf Stream winds, it’s significantly warmer than neighboring North Carolina. But unlike Caribbean islands, Bermuda’s high season runs May through October; because of those same weather patterns, hurricanes are rarely a problem here. Plus, the direct flight is a mere two hours, and often less expensive than the haul to places like St. Bart’s or Anguilla.

Our destination: Tucker’s Point, where a new hotel and spa opened this April, among the final additions to the sprawling oceanfront Tucker’s Point complex, which includes a beach, golf and tennis club, estate homes and fractional ownership villas. The hotel is designed to rival the likes of the Ritz-Carlton—in other words, to far and away surpass anything previously on the island—but, says Chief Operating Officer Eric Brooks, “I don’t like to use the word luxury.” That, he feels, might imply something gauche, which Tucker’s Point is determinedly not.

Whatever you call it, it’s the perfect summertime getaway. Since the hotel was still receiving finishing touches, we stayed in one of the Harbour Court villas, overlooking the shimmering waters of Castle Harbour. The appointments, throughout the residences and the hotel, are meant to evoke the grand colonial days of the 1920s and ‘30s: old world sophistication meets island cool, with nary a neon color or kitschy shell painting in sight. We got lost more than a few times in our two-bedroom suite, with a spacious balcony running along its length, a full kitchen and a luxe Kohler bathroom with a massive soaking tub and Floris London amenities.

We wanted nothing more than to settle into one of the massive chaise lounges on our balcony, or better yet kick back by one of the gorgeous infinity-edge pools that overlook the water or near the pristine new croquet lawn overseen by John Young, a manager at the residence club and an internationally ranked croquet player from a renowned croquet family. (Yes, there is such a thing.)

But there were things to do, starting with a visit to Tucker’s Point Dive & Watersports Centre. It’s worth a look for the full-service floating cabanas and beach-side waterpark alone. And if you dive or snorkel, it’s a must-try experience. The customized boat, the Tidal Pull, is light-years away from those booze-soaked, cattle-herd cruisers of our youths, with perks like a hot shower on board for the moment you decided you’ve had enough of the life aquatic. In addition to being expert divers, personable managers Terry Pryse and Stephen Kerr (a former sommelier) are also avid historians, and give an excellent tour of the harbor, complete with history lessons and, if you’re lucky, a visit to hidden caves. We set out by speedboat to snorkel around a shipwreck—one of more the 300 around the island—where schools of fish swum through holes rusted into the decaying hull.

For dinner, we stopped in at The Point, a gourmet dining destination featuring global-French fare with a seafood focus, and elaborate tasting menus available. Here, the colonial-era decor reaches its pinnacle, with romantic lighting, dark wood, high ceilings and dramatic chandeliers. Brooks, a bit of a history buff, is proudest of the monumental mural, originally commissioned by Pan Am chairman and hotelier Juan Trippe for the Pan Am building in New York. It was purchased at auction and restored to fit seamlessly into this airy dining room.

Our second day in Bermuda was another gorgeous one, and we were tempted by the acres of pristine golf course, rolled out before us like a velvety green carpet. Some call the Mid Ocean Club Bermuda’s Pebble Beach; it has hosted the PGA Grand Slam the past two years. This year that event transfers to Robert Trent Jones’ newly renovated Port Royal Golf Club, near Southampton. But even more convenient is Tucker’s Point’s own course, considered one of the best resort courses in the Caribbean with views of Castle Harbour and Harrington Sound.

However, we were intent on sightseeing, so we took a rented scooter on a day’s excursion to discover the tiny, circuitous streets and UNESCO-preserved fortifications of historic St. George’s Parish, the stunning ocean outlooks and hidden beaches along scenic South Road, the chi-chi bustle of upscale retail  in Hamilton, and the picturesque sweep of Flatts Village. Unlike some island destinations, Bermuda is a place that rewards aimless wanderings with treats like a sweeping view from Gibbs Hill lighthouse or the idyllic natural swimming pool at Jobson’s Cove.

The rest of our vacation involved a morning of rejuvenation in Tucker Point’s gorgeous, serenity-inducing spa at the hands of a very talented masseuse, and a few pitchers of a very strong drink called Swizzle from Bermuda mainstay The Swizzle Inn; the remainder of that night is a bit foggy. To divulge the rest—well, that just wouldn’t be civilized.

FIELD GUIDE: BERMUDA

STAY
Tucker’s Point hotel rooms start at $450. One-eighth fractional ownership at the residence club starts around $100,000, not bad when you consider most Bermuda homes are $1 million-plus—if you can legally buy one, which is tricky. (tuckerspoint.com)

SHOP
In St. George’s, a must is Bermuda Perfumery, famed for its lush floral extracts. (lilibermuda.com) Hamilton’s Front Street is studded with shops like Max Mara and MAC, and the Royal Navy dockyard hosts a craft and farm market. And Tucker’s Point’s boutique, Regali, has an array of cute accessories and housewares.

DINE
The Point at Tucker’s Point is a must as much for the ambience as for the inventive seafood (tuckerspoint.com) Tom Moore’s Tavern is Bermuda’s oldest restaurant and a fine dining destination overlooking Castle Harbour. (tommoores.com) And Rustico in Flatts Village is a favorite for old school Italian. (441-295-5212)

SPA
Tucker’s Point’s new spa is truly phenomenal, with a barbershop, a ladies’ salon, and treatment rooms surrounding a serene reflecting pool and garden. The 18-spout TAG shower is a must, as are the signature Cedar Warming massage and Beekeeper No. 5 honey scrub, using local botanicals and Germaine de Capuccini products.

GOLF
Tucker’s Point can get you tee times at Mid Ocean Club (themidoceanclubbermuda.com) or Tucker’s Point’s own golf course with killer ocean views (tuckerspoint.com/golf.cfm). Or head down-island to check out the newly renovated Port Royal Golf Course (portroyalgolf.bm).

ACTIVITIES
Learn SCUBA basically overnight, rent a floating cabana or try the “James Bond” snorkeling, holding on to an underwater propeller at Dive and Watersports Centre at Tucker’s Point. (441-298-4050). Or grab a scooter from Smatt’s and tool around the island’s towns and beaches. (smattscyclelivery.com)

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