We don’t always remember it (unless we’re downwind) but the fact is, we live just minutes from the Mushroom Capital of the World, Kennett Square. And right now, it’s mushroom season. Sort of.

Sort of, because most mushrooms these days are farmed, year round, in temperature-controlled facilities. But still, fall is the season when the hearty, rich flavors of wild and exotic mushrooms tend to find their way into soups, stews and other cold-weather dishes. It’s also the season when mushroom hunters find several highly prized wild species: distinctive, peppery chanterelles, fresh, meaty porcinis, and surprisingly seafood-reminiscent lobster mushrooms. And, in Kennett Square, it’s the season for one of our region’s more unusual celebrations: the annual Mushroom Festival (Sept. 6-7; mushroomfestival.org), complete with dancing, farm tours, cooking demos and a mushroom soup-and-wine fest.

To get in the festive mood, we spoke with Chef Gary Trevisani, formerly the directory of culinary development for the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College. Trevisani just purchased The Orchard Restaurant—an upscale B.Y.O.B. right in Kennett Square—so he’s in for a world of mushrooms.

“I try to use what’s seasonal on the menu,” says Trevisani, who’s slowly building his network of local producers for a small but ever-changing American-International menu that focuses on organic and sustainably produced ingredients—think fricassee of quail with a wild mushroom ragout over polenta. His very first producer was, of course, Phillips Mushroom Farms (whose mushrooms are pictured above).

Chanterelles, he says are great “fresh, sautéed with shallots and butter and served as an accompaniment with a sauce or vegetable dish. I’m developing a ravioli filled with duck and fresh wild mushrooms, served with a cream and tomato sauce. And I’ll also have a mushroom soup.”

When shopping, he says, “look for mushrooms that are firm and have no discoloration or darkness, and that have a fresh smell.” And when buying wild mushrooms, go for what’s in season: “Whenever you buy something seasonally, it’s better quality.”

The Orchard: 503 Orchard Ave., Kennett Square; 610-388-1100; theorchardbyob.com.

The Orchard’s wild mushroom ravioli with tomato, parsley and cream sauce

FILLING
1 oz. clarified butter
1 tbsp. minced shallots
½ tbsp. minced garlic
2 oz. porcini mushrooms, sliced
2 oz. fresh chanterelle mush-
rooms, sliced
2 oz. fresh crimini mushrooms,
sliced
¼ cup tomato concasse (peeled,
seeded and chopped)
½ cup crème fraîche
1 tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped
1 lb. pasta sheets
salt and pepper to taste

SAUCE
½ cup white wine
2 tbsp. minced shallots
½ cup heavy cream
¼ cup tomato concasse
2 tbsp. chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION: 1. Heat butter in sauté pan. Add shallots and garlic. Cook until softened but not browned. 2. Add sliced mushrooms, cook until soft and slightly browned. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Add tomatoes and cook until heated through. 4. Add crème fraîche and thyme and mix together. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Place mixture in a bowl and cool completely. 6. Place pasta sheets on table, place portion of mushroom mixture on pasta, top with another sheet and cut to desired shape. 7. Place raviolis on a sheet tray coated with cornmeal to keep them from sticking. Raviolis can be held for one day in a refrigerator.
TO SERVE: 1. Boil raviolis in a pot of salted water until al dente. 2. While raviolis cook, heat the shallots in wine and cook until wine has reduced to 1 tbsp. Add the tomatoes with cream and 1 tbsp. of chopped parsley and cook until heated through. 3. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Coat raviolis in sauce and adjust seasoning. 5. Place portion of raviolis on heated plate and top iightly with sauce. 6. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 4 as an appetizer.

The Orchard’s mushroom strudel with fresh tomatoes

STRUDEL
2 oz. clarified butter
2 tbsp. chopped shallots
2 tbsp. chopped garlic
½ lb. button mushrooms, sliced
¼ lb. crimini mushrooms, sliced
2 oz. porcini mushrooms, sliced
2 oz. chanterelles, chopped
½ cup white wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme
1 tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon
1 tbsp. chopped fresh chives
1 cup heavy cream
1 box phyllo dough
salt and pepper to taste

SAUCE
2 tbsp. clarified butter
1 tbsp. chopped garlic
¼ cup white wine
1 cup tomato concasse
2 tbsp. chopped chives
salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION: 1. Heat butter in sauté pan, add shallots and garlic and cook until softened but not browned. 2. Add mushrooms and cook until completely softened. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Add wine and cook until reduced by one half volume. 4. Add chicken stock and reduce until ¼ cup. 5. Add herbs and cream and cook until thick. Season with salt and pepper. 6. Cool mixture completely. 7. Place a sheet of phyllo on a board and brush with melted butter. Add another sheet and top with butter. Repeat until you have four layers of phyllo. 8. Cut dough in half. Place ½ cup of mushroom mixture on each half. Roll mixture in the dough, folding sides in and making two strudels. 9. Place on sheet tray until ready to cook; strudels will hold in refrigerator for one day.
TO SERVE: 1. Heat oven to 450°.
2. Brush strudel with clarified butter and bake until golden brown. 3. While strudel is in oven; heat a sauté pan and add garlic. Cook until softened.
4. Add wine; cook to reduce by half. 5. Add tomatoes; heat through. Add chives. Season with salt and pepper. 6. Plate strudel with sauce and serve.

Serves 4 to 5 as an appetizer.